The design houses of St. John and Stizzoli were way ahead of the curve on this one.
Even before American designers began to weave the sort of soft, chunky, yesteryear-inspired knits for men and women that are finding their way into stores this season, the two luxury brands were turning out lighter-weight, easy-to-pack pieces that became popular for their style, comfort, and durability.
The retro fever that has swept over fashion like a tsunami combined with renewed emphasis on layering and the natural need to dress warmer in winter have heralded an array of knitwear not seen in recent years.
Knits have been the strongest category in retail right now, said trend analyst Alison Sokolove, a fashion editor at the Tobe Report. In a tough economy what people are buying are knits, specifically sweater knits, even more specifically the cardigan. It s the it knit this season.
Virtually gone are the days of big, itchy, scratchy wool sweaters and coats. Thanks to technology and fabric innovations, the new interpretations are short on rough texture and construction that doesn t breathe, and long on softness and comfort. And they don t sacrifice warmth.
Cable knits are a major trend for men and women, and the cardigan returns in lengths from the waist to the knees. There also are toggle sweaters for men, floor-sweeping knit dusters for women, and knits in silhouettes borrowed from trench coats, peacoats, and motorcycle jackets.
Although often inspired by vintage, the newest crop of knits is far from stuffy. They re fresh and modern, such as the cable-knit polos, V-neck sweaters, zip sweaters, toggle sweaters, and sleeveless knit dresses in strawberry, purple, and black at Banana Republic.
The most popular color among knit buyers at retail is black, followed by gray and purple, said Ms. Sokolove.
Anything open in the front is what s driving the business, she said. Those styles are verastile and have a good price value because they can be worn on the outside or under something.
Mia boutique in Oakmont, Pa., is stocking knit skirts and dresses by Halo, Tracy Reese, and French Connection in shades of gray, red, midnight blue, black, and tweed. Owner Yvonne Petraitis said the new styles, like so many current fashions, are retro-reminiscent.
Knits were popular in the 40s, 50s and 60s with an emphasis on the waist, she said. Dresses, skirts ,and jackets all focused on the woman s curves. We are now seeing a return to the Jackie O-style silhouettes.
Knit accessories are abundant, from tams, scarves, and caftans to wraps tipped with ruffles, fringe, and fur. There are knits galore at GAP, including beanies, berets, mittens, and cable-knit legwarmers, boots, and scarves.
The strong resurgence of knitwear is one of fashion s many cycles, looping around again after years of woven and fancy shirts, the Cosby and kaleidoscopic sweaters of the 80s, country plaid, and minimal and then tech fabrics, observed trend forecaster Tom Julian, president of Tom Julian Group in New York.
Now it s more about clean lines in knitwear, he said. With climate and lifestyle changes, they lend themselves to men s and women s wardrobes because of lighter gauges and more styling elements. There s variety in layering pieces.Technology has helped knits become more versatile and lifestyle has allowed them to adapt more in different ways. You can dress them up and dress them down.
Julian noted that knitwear is showing up in eveningwear, where it had not been before. And knit vests are back after not really being seen since Giorgio Armani designed some for the 1987 hit gangster flick The Untouchables.
But it is the sweater, the most universally popular knit garment, that takes center stage this season.
And the pricing works, Mr. Julian said. For under $100, you can get a good-quality, fashionable sweater.
The Block News Alliance consists of The Blade and the PittsburghPost-Gazette. LaMont Jones is fashion editor of the Post-Gazette.
Contact him at: ljones@post-gazette.com.
First Published November 8, 2008, 1:22 p.m.
