As zucchini and summer-squash season begins to wind down, fall brings a lineup of winter squash in various shapes, sizes, and colors.

Squash is common ground when cooking for vegetarians and nonvegetarians. It's an ingredient in soups, stews, stir-frys, casseroles, and main dishes that may be made with or without meat, poultry, or fish.

Recently, I turned to my old family friend - zucchini - when vegetarian guests joined us for dinner.

I pulled a longtime recipe out of the box: Zucchini Monte, a mixture of rice, zucchini, cooked chicken, and mozzarella cheese. I made the dish, but set aside the chicken for those who wanted it, thus keeping the casserole chicken-free.

It worked. Along with appetizers, a tossed salad, and my two maroon carrot dishes (see column at left), there was plenty for all.

(Although I baked Zucchini Monte in a casserole dish, this dish lends itself to larger zucchini, which can be cut in half, scooped out, and mixed with the casserole ingredients; the casserole itself is then baked in the hollowed-out halves of zucchini.)

Too often, squash is an untapped resource in meals for groups that include vegetarians and nonvegetarians.

Usually squash is divided into two types: summer and winter. Summer squash has a soft outer skin that is consumed as a table vegetable. Winter squash has a hard outer skin that is fully ripe and is generally stored into the fall or winter.

Summer squash includes yellow squash and zucchini. You can expect to see these until October. Both are tender when sauteed, grilled, or steamed. Sometimes these linger longer or grow faster in home gardens than anticipated. Then these can be bigger, heavier, and sometimes slightly bitter if not picked soon enough.

Zucchini is very versatile. Use it in a slaw, a baked casserole, or in a muffin or quick bread. When using zucchini in a salad, The Classic Zucchini Cookbook by Nancy C. Ralston, Marynor Jordan, and Andrea Chesman (Storey Books, $14.95) recommends blanching it briefly so that it stays tender crisp but the flavors and color are enhanced. If zucchini is grated, blanching is not needed. Zucchini can also be tossed in a frittata, on top of pizza, in a souffle, sauteed and mixed with pasta, and batter-fried.

Squash Gratin with White Cheddar Cheese makes use of yellow summer squash. Again this recipe can accompany a meat entr e or be a stand-alone vegetarian item.

Zucchini and summer squash have been small this season and by all indications in produce sections, the crop has not been as plentiful as in years when there was more rainfall.

"The dryness slowed up the crop," says Norm Moll, Ohio State University extension agent. "We may not see the winter variety until the end of September. The pumpkins seem smaller. Smallness may be an indication of the lack of rain."

As for winter squash, there are so many varieties that Freida's Specialty Produce has categorized them as sweet and savory. But those who like squash will say they just like the flavor.

Sweet squash varieties vary in size, shape, and texture, but have a mildly sweet flavor. These are perfect for muffins, pies, or souffles, the company advises. The list includes acorn, delicata, buttercup, kabocha, butternut, sugar loaf, carnival, and sweet dumpling.

I know from experience that a savory squash does not make a good "pumpkin" pie. For years I made pumpkin pie from scratch, using a crook neck yellow squash that was plentiful where I lived in Lancaster, Pa. On subsequent moves to other states, I could usually find a similar squash. On one move, however, I thought I bought the same squash, but it was a savory squash; no amount of sugar would make that flavor worthy of a "pumpkin" pie.

Savory squash varieties have a robust flavor that can be enhanced with butter or cinnamon. These are great accompaniments to meat or for use in soups and stews without sugar added. These include Australian blue, banana, golden nugget, hubbard, red kuri, and turban.

Note that chayote and spaghetti squash are in neither group: They have the taste and texture of summer squash, but are stored like winter squash.

All orange-fleshed squash varieties are excellent sources of beta carotene (which the body uses to make vitamin A), vitamin C, niacin, phosphorous, and potassium.

Peak availability of winter squash is September through December. "The mature ones are picked right after the frost so they don't freeze," says Mr. Moll.

When planning menus for the coming holidays, think about utilizing squash in your recipes; it's a dish with broad appeal and unlimited possibilities.

First Published September 24, 2002, 12:59 p.m.