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From bottom counter-clockwise: Fresh Green Almonds with Salt and Lemon; Almond Granita; Almond Cake Slices; and Saffron, Date, and Almond Rice.
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The joy of almonds

The Blade/Lori King

The joy of almonds

Celebrating a surprising fruit of early spring

Springtime famously brings such beautiful produce as asparagus, morel mushrooms, rhubarb, and peas.

Not so well known, though, is that it also brings fresh, green almonds.

“They start in late March and go until late April,” said Nadine Hariri, whose family owns the Middle East Market, 4623 W. Bancroft St., which sells the prized fruits for $1.99 per pound.

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Fruits? Yes, you read that correctly: fruits. Almonds aren’t true nuts but rather are drupes — better known as stone fruits — with a fleshy exterior surrounding a kernel or pit. Almonds are related to peaches, plums, cherries, and apricots.

Pry open the fuzzy, velvety shell to reveal a pearl-colored treasure — the almond seed — inside. The younger the almonds, the softer and more gelatinous the interior fruits will be.

Early in the season, the tender unripened almonds can be eaten in their entirety: simply bite in to enjoy the crispness, both in texture and flavor. As they ripen on the tree, the fruits become firmer, while the shells become more bitter and less appetizing.

“Lemon, garlic, and salt are the main things to garnish them,” Mrs. Hariri said of the green almonds. They should be washed and then left moist on the outside, which will enable them “to catch the salt” or other flavorings you might dip them into.

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Green almonds can also be sliced and added to pasta “for a healthy crunch,” said Mrs. Hariri. And “they’d be great in salads … or in salsa.”

When buying green almonds, make sure that they’re firm, not soft, and that there are no brown spots on them. And although they’re best when eaten right away, they can be kept in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for two weeks or so, Mrs. Hariri said.

By mid-May, the almond crop, which comes mostly from California, will be more mature. The fruits’ exteriors will have hardened to the point of being inedible. And the interiors will become crunchy: The almonds will become firm and brown, as we’re accustomed to seeing them in grocery stores. The fruits are extracted for eating out of hand or for use in baking and cooking, while the shells are then discarded.

Almonds are prized ingredients in countless dishes, both sweet and savory.

Romesco sauce, from the Catalan region in Spain, is a blend of almonds and roasted red peppers that’s thickened with bread crumbs. White gazpacho — a classic chilled soup, but less familiar than the bright-red tomato-based variety — features almonds puréed with garlic, often with the additions of cucumbers and grapes to contribute some sweetness. Marzipan, a confection of ground almonds mixed with sugar and honey, can be formed into small fruit-shaped candies or rolled into sheets to cover fruit cakes. And don’t forget that beloved classic at Chinese restaurants: almond boneless chicken.

Familiar ripened almonds are used in three of the recipes offered below, either as an appreciated accent or as an integral ingredient.

Saffron, Date, and Almond Rice, from London restaurateur and cookbook author Yotam Ottolenghi, requires several steps, but don’t be put off; each is simple (soak, boil, simmer), and the result is perfectly fluffy, flavorful rice. Almonds sautéed in butter give this dish both texture and taste.

Almond Granita amplifies the almond experience by mixing ground almonds, almond paste, almond milk, and even almond extract into a rich, refreshing dessert that can be made ahead, ready to serve when you’re ready to eat it.

Almond Cake Slices take a purchased product — pound cake — and make it even more delicious with an almond-based topping and toasted almonds to add some crunch. Elegant but easy, these are perfect at any time (especially when you need a quick treat with little notice).

Whether eating them fresh and unripened or firm and mature, almonds will most certainly bring you joy.

Contact Mary Bilyeu at mbilyeu@theblade.com or 419-724-6155 or on Twitter @foodfloozie.

 

RECIPES

Fresh Green Almonds with Salt and Lemon

Nadine Hariri of the Middle East Market says that serving fresh almonds with salt “is delicious.” Serving them with lemon “would be super delicious.”

2 cups fresh, green almonds

Pink Himalayan salt or sea salt

1/​2 lemon, cut into 4 pieces

Wash the almonds and dry them gently, leaving them very slightly damp. Place them on a serving plate accompanied by the salt and the lemon pieces. To eat, spritz the almonds with lemon juice and/​or dip them in the salt.

Yield: 2 cups.

Source: Adapted from Nadine Hariri.

 

Saffron, Date, and Almond Rice

“I have said it before and I am happy to repeat myself: Iranians make the best rice,” writes Yotam Ottolenghi. The washing, parboiling, and steaming technique outlined below yields “light rice, every grain perfectly defined from the rest of the clan.”

Rounded 2 cups basmati rice

1/​2 cup unsalted butter

2/​3 cup whole almonds, coarsely chopped

4 large medjool dates, pitted and coarsely chopped

1/​4 teaspoon saffron threads, soaked in 2 tablespoons hot water

Salt and white pepper

Rinse the rice well under running cold water. Put it in a large bowl, cover with plenty of lukewarm water, and stir in 2 tablespoons salt. Allow the rice to sit for 1 to 2 hours, then drain and wash with lukewarm water.

In a 3-quart saucepan, bring water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons salt, then the rice. Gently boil the rice for 3 to 4 minutes, until the rice is almost cooked. Check this by removing a grain and biting into it: It should still have a tiny bit of bite. Drain the rice and rinse under lukewarm water. Set aside to drain.

In the same saucepan, melt 5 1/​2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat and sauté the almonds for 5 minutes, until they turn slightly golden. Add the dates and cook for a few more minutes. Stir in 1/​2 teaspoon white pepper, 1/​4 teaspoon salt, and half the rice. Gently flatten this rice and then layer the remaining rice on top. Melt the remaining 2 1/​2 tablespoons butter and drizzle this over the top along with 3 tablespoons water. Cover the pan tightly with a lid and cook on the lowest heat possible for 35 minutes. Remove from the heat and spoon the saffron and its soaking water over the top. Cover the pan immediately with a kitchen towel, seal with the lid, and set aside for 10 minutes.

To serve, don’t stir the rice, just use a large serving spoon to remove portions with the distinct two layers kept separate.

Yield: 4 servings.

Source: Adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi, Plenty More.

 

Almond Granita

Kim Kushner writes that this make-ahead dessert is ”mind-blowingly delicious.”

1/​4 cup almond paste

1/​3 cup sugar

1/​2 cup slivered blanched almonds, toasted

1 1/​4 cups almond milk

1/​2 teaspoon almond extract

Cinnamon, pomegranate seeds, and/​or melted chocolate, for serving

In a blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients until just blended. Pour the mixture into a freezer-safe glass or metal dish and place in the freezer until partially frozen, about 2 hours.

Remove from the freezer and use a fork to scrape the mixture into fine crystal shavings. Just keep scraping back and forth until you’ve reached the bottom of the dish. If some pieces seem too big, use the fork to smash them down a bit.

Return the dish to the freezer until the mixture is again partially frozen, 30 to 60 minutes. You do not want it to be rock hard; it should be starting to freeze along the edges and be frozen on top. Once again, remove the dish from the freezer and repeat the scraping process, then return it to the freezer. Repeat this scraping and refreezing two or three times until you have nicely sized crystal shavings.

Use a spoon or an ice cream scoop to place the frozen granita into individual serving dishes. Store in the freezer until ready to serve. Let thaw for 2 to 3 minutes before serving.

If you like, sprinkle on some cinnamon or pomegranate seeds before serving. A little melted chocolate drizzled on top never hurt, either.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Source: Adapted from Kim Kushner, The New Kosher.

 

Almond Cake Slices

These ”almost homemade” treats, as Entenmann’s calls them, are lovely for breakfast, for dessert, to accompany coffee or tea, or for no reason at all.

1 loaf pound cake

2 tablespoons maple syrup

1 tablespoon brandy

1/​2 cup sugar

1/​2 cup sliced almonds, divided

Pinch of kosher salt

3 tablespoons butter, softened

1 egg

Powdered sugar, for dusting

Preheat the oven to 350F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone liner.

Trim the ends from the loaf, then cut it into eight slices. Place the slices onto the baking sheet.

In a small bowl, mix together the maple syrup and the brandy. Brush onto the cake slices.

Combine the sugar, 1/​3 cup of the almonds, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Process until finely ground, then add the butter and process for a further 10 seconds. Slowly add in the egg and process until the mixture is creamy.

Spread the almond filling over the tops of the cake slices, then sprinkle with the remaining almonds. Bake for 20 minutes, until the almond cream is firm and the sliced almonds are golden. Dust with powdered sugar and serve.

Yield: 8 slices.

Source: Adapted from Entenmann’s Big Book of Baking.

First Published April 26, 2016, 4:00 a.m.

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From bottom counter-clockwise: Fresh Green Almonds with Salt and Lemon; Almond Granita; Almond Cake Slices; and Saffron, Date, and Almond Rice.  (The Blade/Lori King)  Buy Image
Almond cake slices.  (The Blade/Lori King)  Buy Image
Almond Granita combines ground almond, almond paste, almond milk, and almond extract into a rich dessert.  (The Blade/Lori King)  Buy Image
Saffron, date and almond rice.  (The Blade/Lori King)  Buy Image
Fresh green almonds with salt and lemon.  (The Blade/Lori King)  Buy Image
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