DEVILS LAKE, Mich. -- According to the sign over the handsome new building, the new name of the popular Devils Lake pub and eatery is the Manitou Bar and Grill. But regulars who waited anxiously for it to open just know it as Marie's.

In the southern Michigan lake district, the bar and grill literally rose from the ashes and replaces the old Manitou Inn that burned down in January, 2010. Last weekend's grand opening was not just a chance to see the place and try an expanded menu. It served as a tribute to Marie Parker, the gutsy woman who narrowly escaped in the fire. Marie could have hung up her apron after the tragedy but that's not her style. She is happily back in the business where the community feels she belongs, cordially greeting customers, tossing out an occasional sarcastic remark, and offering her opinions.

Marie's original home was Garden City, Mich., but she was familiar with the Irish Hills lake district because her parents had a cottage at Clark Cove at Clark Lake. She took over the old Manitou Inn in 1983 and gained an impressive following among the locals and Toledoans who summer at Devils and Round lakes.

For lack of a better description, Marie is a character, and a lovable one. She may speak her mind, whether you are a new customer or one who has been bellying up to the bar for years. But down deep she is a softie who cares deeply for the old timers who have been patronizing her place for years. She is equally anxious to know first-time customers.

If she says, in a sarcastic tone, "You should eat more salads," she means well. When she told the health department inspector who told her she and her employees could not exercise in the basement where food is stored, she had a response. "If the Ford Motor Co. employees can exercise, so can we."

The only good news to come from the devastating fire that destroyed the lake landmark was that Marie miraculously survived. She lived upstairs over the bar and when firefighters arrived her hair was in flames. Marie's narrow escape accounts for the community-wide jubilation of her return to business in good health and with her usual enthusiasm.

Seventeen months later, the feisty, friendly woman is greeting customers in a new building with stunning decor. The innovative ceiling made up of a solid mass of 217 old doors is a main attraction. Several doors are believed to be 100 years old.

Marie's brother, David Gajda, and his business partner, Jose Mallagon, who were instrumental in the design and construction of the new building, culled all of the doors in the area. They own several restaurants in Hollywood, Calif.

Mr. Mallagon explained why he chose old doors for the ceiling instead of paneling. "I have always liked paneling, but it seemed too formal here. I wanted to keep it casual." The walls also convey a casual look with aged wood from an Amish sawmill. Hardware from the doors was used to enhance the frames on mirrors in the rest rooms.

A 28-foot mahogany bar with matching stools and an outdoor patio that seats 40 people are focal points. The 1809 inscription on the fireplace states that the location was a fur trading post in Manitou Beach's earliest history. It's hard to connect with such ancient history when cucumber martinis are being mixed at the bar, but Manitou was integral in Michigan Native American lore.

With a longer menu, a state-of-the-art kitchen, and more employees, how is Marie coping? Very well.

"The best part is that I don't have anything that has to be repaired in this new place," she said.

She likes the new kitchen, but considers the new equipment complicated.

And she is happy that it is now a family business: her daughter Kim works with her, her grandson works in the kitchen, and brother Dave is her right-hand confidante.

"I'm really having a good time," she said over the hectic holiday weekend.

She knows tripling the number of employees was essential to get the new place rolling. "But the payroll is too big," she quipped.

Mary Alice Powell is a retired Blade food editor. Contact her at: mpowell@theblade.com.

First Published July 10, 2011, 4:15 a.m.