The word was out among Toledo’s foodies that renovations were being made at Mancy’s Steak House.

I take pride in being a longtime foodie, but I admit I was somewhat hesitant to visit Mancy’s flagship restaurant to see what had been done to change the restaurant that has been an anchor for good food and service in Toledo since 1921.

Change is usually good, and often essential, but in this case, I was hoping it was minimal.

Mancy’s Steak House has always offered a blend of casual and comfort with a splash of class.

In pondering what changes might have been made to the Toledo institution, I also took into consideration the generation gap between Gus and Mike Mancy, the current steak house proprietors, and John Mancy and his brother, the late George Mancy, the generation that was responsible for the last makeover in 1974. Tastes often differ between generations.

After a slow, deliberate walk through the restaurant with seating in large and small dining areas, and a New York strip steak and a colossal baked potato dinner, I extend heartfelt congratulations to Mike and Gus.

More kudos go to their partners in the Mancy Restaurant Group: George, John, and Nick Mancy, who operate Mancy’s Italian, the Blue Water Grille, and Shorty’s Barbeque.

Toledo’s oldest restaurant was not harshly renovated, as I feared it might be. Refreshed is a more accurate term for the changes that are subtle with a comfortable fit.

Best of all, the feeling and character were retained. The Tiffany-style lampshades are still in place over large booths, and the royal staircase leading to the second floor is polished. On the three-story walls are a maze of photographs that tell the story of a family dedicated to the restaurant founded by Gus Mancy, a Greek immigrant.

High-top tables in the lounge and a fireplace added in the second large dining room, known as the Phillips for Phillips Avenue, address the needs of young diners. Even differences in table linens denote age preferences. The cloths on butcher-block tables in the Phillips Room are mauve, but in the main dining room, the rule always has been, and still is, white linens.

The foyer is the best example of the ways Design Collective, the Columbus designer on the project, achieved a more open look and feel.

A second archway entrance into the main dining room opens the foyer. Longtime Mancy customers may notice that the giant antique fountain that was the centerpiece in the main dining room is gone. In the fountain’s place, four upholstered banquettes take center stage to open and soften the large room.

I immediately noticed that the Victorian sideboard that was the late Gus Mancy’s station to greet guests is no longer at the usual place near the entrance.

But, it is still there, just moved to the side and identified with Gus’ photograph.

It is clear that the intent of Gus’ grandchildren, who are now at the helm, was to update the Toledo landmark but keep the family legacy vibrant.

I well remember my first visit with the elder Mr. Mancy at the steak house.

“Why did you open the Ideal on Phillips Avenue?” I asked. Ideal was the original restaurant on the property at 953 Phillips Ave.

The question made sense to me. After all Monroe Street and Laskey Road were the city’s thriving restaurant arteries at the time of the interview, so why Phillips Avenue?

“It was at the end of the trolley car line,” he explained. It made sense to him that after work, trolley riders would be hungry and go to the Ideal to eat.

Ninety-three years later, it still makes sense. Only the trolley is gone.

Mary Alice Powell is a retired Blade food editor. Contact her at: mpowell@theblade.com.

First Published September 28, 2014, 4:00 a.m.