Sometimes a restaurant needs a change of scenery, and one of Toledo’s favorite Mediterranean hot spots has found a new home at 4625 Bancroft.

Renamed after the third-largest city in Lebanon, the Sidon Lebanese Grille and Bakery, with its adjacent Middle East Market, has taken over the building that formerly housed Vellmar’s five-star market from 1976 to 1993. Sidon previously had a location on Dorr Street, just west of Reynolds Road.

Sidon opened its doors Nov. 5, and positive buzz drew local politicians and community members to its official grand opening ceremony on Jan. 29. 

Inside the remodeled building, canvas prints of photographs and other pieces of art from the Levant line the walls. A shelf of fezzes and pottery separate the counter where orders are placed from about 17 booths for sitting. A private banquet room is also available.

MENU: Sidon Lebanese Grille and Bakery

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When my companion and I arrived to dine for the first time, the aroma of the halal-prepared lamb, beef, and chicken, slow cooked on a spit and barbecued with natural charcoal, wafted through the air. 

We also noticed the seemingly endless supply of fresh, homemade pita bread being placed into a stone-fire oven. It was brought right to our table.

With fresh and smooth hummus spread over my piece of pita, I took a bite. It’s always a treat. In this instance, slivers of radishes, paprika, and parsley dominated in flavor.

My friend dipped a piece of bread into the tabbouleh salad ($5.99), which consisted of parsley, onion, garlic, tomato, bulgur, and olive oil. With the robust spices, such as garlic and paprika, the taste of lemon normally in a tabbouleh spread was nonexistent. Whether that is good or bad depends on one’s preference.

Eager to see what else the stone-fire oven could offer, my friend tried a manakeesh, which is a Lebanese-style pizza that is sliced or folded. The sliced pepperoni veggie pizza ($4.99) was extra, extra cheesy with black olives, mushrooms, and tomato sauce. This dish signified, in my opinion, a melting pot of customs combining the pepperoni pizza, served Lebanese style. (There are Americanized dishes on the menu such as hamburgers and chicken wraps.)

It was early enough in the day, and I wanted to go a different route. Sidon has a breakfast menu available until 2 p.m. The eggs and shawarma ($8.99) and a cup of Colombian roast coffee warmed me up on one of the last cold days of the year. 

The slow-cooked fatty shredded beef paired well with eggs served with pickled beets, pickles, lettuce, and tomatoes. These vegetable items are served with dinner entrees as well. The tender dish was a unique cuisine choice that warrants a trip to Sidon in the early hours. It was a great way to start the day.

After doing some grocery shopping at the market, my friend and I visited Sidon at dinnertime.

We started with the falafel appetizer ($3.99). Four falafel balls packed with chickpeas, fava beans, and vegetables served with a tahini sauce were brought to our table. The falafel bites mixed well with the sauce.

For our main course, I tried the shish tawook ($11.99). The two skewers of chicken were rich in paprika and parsley. 

I would recommend ordering the chicken medium well because one of the pieces of chicken was a bit undercooked. Every other piece was succulent and juicy, though.

My friend ordered Sidon’s Mixed Grill ($15.99), which consists of grilled chicken, beef, lamb, and roasted and grilled onions and tomatoes. The dish was cooked to preference and I sampled each piece of meat. Again, the spices were paprika and parsley. There was so much food that my friend needed a box. We both skipped out on the rice and chose french fries at the behest of the guy at the counter because he said the fries were the best in Toledo. The potatoes were fresh and delicious, but not the best in Toledo.

Apple-flavored Laziza ($1.99), a soft drink, was recommended to us as well.

Sidon also has specials on a daily basis. The market has many ingredients and offerings such as the baked goods, hummus, and pita bread that the restaurant has.

It’s great to see a new business in that Bancroft plaza. I’ve explained to many of my friends where Sidon is and many responded saying, “Oh, that plaza.” It is a positive step for the Toledo restaurant community.

Contact Bill of Fare at: fare@theblade.com.

First Published March 24, 2016, 4:00 a.m.