Article published August 26, 2008
Al fresco dining: Georgeann Brown's menus for Tile Club inspire Labor Day entertaining
By KATHIE SMITH BLADE FOOD EDITOR
Al fresco dining - Midwest style - is an awesome culinary adventure worthy of any Labor Day.
Inspired by the Italians, the term for fresh and cool dining outdoors is a culinary approach perfected by Georgeann Brown of Un Coupe de Main (A Helping Hand) catering service.
Although the Michigan caterer specializes in French cuisine, she brought the al fresco concept to the Toledo Tile Club's annual August picnic.
The event was held at the Ida, Mich., home of Dick Boers, where the great room leads to the meandering, extensive deck overlooking gardens dotted with outdoor art. The club's 20 members and their spouses had as much fun sampling the food as they did discussing their favorite topic: art. Among those attending were the group's patriarch and watercolor artist Walter Chapman and his wife, Jean.
The Tile Club was founded in 1895 "to promote the study of art and create an atmosphere of good fellowship." Early in its history the club held the original discussions for the need for Toledo to have an art museum. "It's had a very storied tradition," says Mr. Boers. "To think after 113 years we still exist."
The members usually meet once a week at their downtown Toledo clubhouse, where one of the members cooks the evening meal, often on a grill in the hearth. Most of the members are artists. There are a few architects, a professional photographer and a glass blower, and Mr. Boers is a landscape architect and former commissioner of parks and forestry for Toledo.There was no shortage of color and artistic culinary expression in Ms. Brown's menu, which was served on a lovely summer evening in the the rolling hills of southern Michigan.
The menu was developed by Ms. Brown and Mr. Boers. "I always insist on the bacon-wrapped dates," he said. "I used to do pulled pork barbecue sandwiches. She brought in the salmon and beef tenderloin."
Ms. Brown was assisted by her husband, Mark Eleniewski, as she prepared foods with great flavor and presentation. It began with a grazing menu of hors d'oeuvres followed by gourmet picnic fare. The twosome paced the preparation of each dish so that there was always a delectable morsel waiting to be tasted.
The bacon-wrapped dates seem so simple. One-third slice of bacon is wrapped around a pitted dried date stuffed with a blanched almond. The bacon wrapped dates are placed on a foil-lined baking sheet and baked in a 400 degree oven for 20 minutes until the bacon is crisp.
Next to a cheese tray was a plate with artistically arranged boursin-cheese cherry tomatoes, "I usually fill pea pods with herbal cheese," says Ms. Brown, a member of the Maumee Valley Herb Society. She uses a small melon baller to scoop out the seeds and meat of each cherry tomato using the non-stem end which is flatter. Then she turns each cherry tomato upside down to drain. "By then the cheese is soft enough to pipe in the cherry tomato," she says.
Sun-dried Tomato Tapenade served on toasted slices of bread called crostini brought rave reviews. Tapenade is from France's Provence region; it is thick paste made from capers, anchovies, ripe olives, olive oil, lemon juice, and seasonings. But for this dish, Ms. Brown used sun-dried tomatoes.
Deviled eggs were made with mayonnaise, curry, Dijon mustard and melted butter. "I use medium eggs because they are easier to eat and I cut them East to West (and not North to South) so people can pop them in their mouths," she says.
While the crowd was tasting and mingling, Mr. Eleniewski was saute-grilling Shrimp Provencal in a wire basket on the grill (see recipe). The shrimp are marinated and broiled or grilled.
For the grilled salmon served with dill sauce, Ms. Brown bought two sides of salmon (skinned and boned); each was about 3 1/2 pounds. The farm-raised salmon was put on foil on top of sliced lemons with a little olive oil. She sprinkled a little salt and pepper and a little lemon juice. "I cook it 10 minutes per inch of thickness," she said, estimating it was grilled for 15 to 18 minutes with the grill lid closed.
Once done, she let's the salmon rest. "It can be served at room temperature," says Ms. Brown, who sliced it in 1 1/2 to 4 inch slices for serving.
A second entree was the mini beef tenderloin sandwiches. She buys the roast beef tenderloin trimmed and tied and marinates it overnight in a soy sauce mixture. Once it is roasted, cooled, and refrigerated, "I slice it right before I make the sandwiches," she says. The beef tenderloin is served on crusty mini rolls with a horseradish mayonnaise and a cornichon (French for gherkin, which is a crisp tart pickle).
Side dishes were already prepared. Blue Cheese Cole Slaw (see recipe) is refreshing and crisp and a great side dish with both the salmon and beef tenderloin.
For the Panzanella, she used two loaves of day-old ciabatta bread. Ms. Brown peeled and seeded the tomatoes, saving the juice to mix with vinegar and oil. Once the bread is mixed with the juice mixture, it is layered with the vegetables. You can use jarred peppers or roast your own.
Glazed fresh fruit tarts, some with pastry cream were colorful and refreshing end to the al fresco menu. Ms. Brown used short crust pastry for the fruit tarts that had strawberries, blueberries, kiwi, raspberries and blackberries. She glazed each tart.
The most unusual tart was fresh fig made with a puff pastry glazed with apricot preserves and without pastry cream. It was pretty and fresh, and a wonderful way to use fresh figs in season. She also made a fresh peach tart using puff pastry.
To showcase these gorgeous desserts, she used pedestal plates and lovely glass dishes from her collection as well as Mr. Boer's kitchen.
The dinner was a finale of sorts for Ms. Brown, who announced that she's retiring from catering. But she will continue giving cooking classes, which are often French inspired, in her Ida, Mich. home. Class schedule will be announced in October via www.georgeannbrown.com.
Kathie Smith is The Blade's food editor. Contact her at food@theblade.com or 419-724-6155.
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