Article published September 21, 2008
Fashion quiets down for fall
Season's outlook is conservative but luxurious
By LaMONT JONES
BLOCK NEWS ALLIANCE
There's something about men's and women's fashions for this fall and winter that flies in the face of the nation's fiscal woes.
Styles are more subtle, pared down, and less flamboyant than last year. But there's still a feel of luxury, and it's derived from beautiful fabrics, touches of fur, and embellishments and shine, observed eBay style director Constance White.
'For the most part, it's a very polished, luxurious season, along with a glamorous, conservative season,' she said. 'Conservatism is the overarching mood of the season. You can't help but draw an inference from the difficult economic climate and the rise of conservative fashion that we're seeing. There's no question that women and men are reacting to the high gas prices, to higher food prices, and the fallout from the real estate market.'
Menswear exhibits a different sort of conservatism, with a continuation of the athletic and preppy influences and the use of fur in a more rugged, utilitarian way.
The blazer is the go-to piece for guys, jazzing up jeans or gray flannel trousers whether the jacket is corduroy, velvet, camelhair, or a comfortable worsted wool. A pocket silk adds a touch of cosmopolitan elegance, and colorful statement socks offer a way to show personality with European flair.
And skinny, less-forgiving design continues.
'After several seasons of runway exposure, the slim silhouette in tailored clothing has become a mainstream staple,' said Macy's spokesoman Heather Hannan. 'Suiting is re-engineered to include narrow two-button jackets and slimmer pants. New details in jackets include shorter proportions and peak lapels.
The dress shirt is reshaped to complement, with a slimmer fit and smaller collar.'
The color palette for men and women tends to darken as weather transitions from hot to warm to cool to cold, and silhouettes this season definitely veer toward lean and clean.
But there's nothing dull or gloomy about what designers are shipping to retailers as autumn approaches. Although they have taken a decisive step toward minimalism, there's still an exuberance that can't be completely restrained.
Consider color, which pops against canvases of black, chocolate, and an array of grays.
Blue hues continue strong from spring and summer in shades such as Caribbean Sea, Blue Iris, and Twilight Blue, while purple reigns as the most ubiquitous color for fall/winter.
Besides rich Aurora Red and medium Royal Lilac, offbeat colors such as Ochre, Shitake, Burnt Orange, and Withered Rose evoke nature's glory in the change of seasons.
Some loud retro colors are still in the mix, a la chartreuse and fuchsia, but the palette goes more traditional and natural with a little extra pigment giving a jolt to berry shades and gem tones.
'Fall is traditionally a time for subdued, quiet colors, but this season we are seeing a shift toward cool hues with bright, exciting undertones,' said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. 'Conventional tones such as warm autumn hues, chocolate browns, and steel grays are also among the fall color choices.'
Apparel has become more architectural, which keeps the minimalist trend from devolving into a sea of boring, uninspired sameness. Military influences are strong, and clothes are body-conscious, even when sumptuously layered.
For women, glamour remains, but it's more a grown-up, parenthetic phrase than an ostentatious exclamation. Looks are more tightly edited yet infused with a sophistication inspired by updates of looks from every decade back to the '40s.
The '60s through the '80s are especially strong influences, with modern elements of goth, punk, and rock fusing in sportswear and some daywear. Dressier clothes also give a nod to the past, but remain fresh and modern in their interpretation.
The power suit ascends as a must-have for women, inspired by the fellows but softened up with ruffly blouses and touches such as pleats. Wide-leg, high-waist trousers are the 'it' pant, dresses are fitted and awash in alluring colors and prints, and skirts from black pencil styles to colorful floral A-lines often appear over opaque tights.
Exploded houndstooth and plaid are statement-makers.
Finely tailored menswear-inspired looks return for another cold season, tweed and boucle pieces are soft and luxurious, and evening is rife with tuxedo-like suits, dresses, and even shoes like Claudia Ciutti's stunning spectator oxford pump.
Ruffles and touches of lace lend sophisticated femininity to blouses; lacework makes skirts and dresses more interesting; sweaters are soft and voluminous, and the Mad Me influence makes dressy gloves a chic must-have.
Metallics appear everywhere, totally covering handbags, tipping shoes, or threading through daywear knits for women.Accessories
Thin belts cinch long cardigans around airy dresses, and wide belts accentuate the waistline on dresses, skirts, and pants.
Jewelry reflects a retro-futuristic opulence in design and scale, with the circle the key geometric shape, necklaces in multiple strands, and cuff bracelets and cocktail rings big and bold. Even small pieces evidence subtle artistic touches and a more refined opulence.
'Thankfully, jewelry designers did not hold back creativity, investment and commitment despite the poor value of the dollar and the rising oil and gas prices,' said Helena Krodel, spokesman for the Jewelry Information Center, a New York-based, trend-tracking trade group.
Handbags for day are big and roomy, often in offbeat colors and with trinkety touches. Wristlets get a little larger and more whimsical while elongated clutches and extravagantly decorated minaudieres are stars for evening and special occasion.
Boot tops hit between the ankle or knee, almost always with a high heel. The bootie is back stronger this fall, festooned with more detailing and in more textural finishes such as crinkled patent leather.
Other trendy footwear options range from low-heeled riding boots, prim flats, and smart oxfords to velvet pumps, high-heeled Mary Janes and stilettoes with cut-out, cage-inspired uppers.
'An important item in hot colors is a long, cashmere ruffle scarf,' said Catherine Ferris, owner of Catherina in Pittsburgh. 'Now, especially, clothing should excite and lift our spirits. Accessories will be key.'
Coiffures and cosmetics are every bit as dramatic, if not more so, than clothing. Hair styles grow into updated beehives, bouffants, and bobs while makeup is enigmatic and transformative with smoky eyes, rich lips and metallic lustre illustrated in color collections by brands such as MAC and Yves Saint Laurent.
'As with all our color collections, we base our shades on what is happening on the runways,' said James Gager, MAC's creative director. 'This fall we saw colors coming from the world of deep, rich reds and dark browns, which is why we conceptualized a collection based on chocolate and cherries. The look of the collection focuses on a dark lip and eye — it's an exaggerated, couture look, both aspirational and alluring.'
The Block News Alliance consists of The Blade and the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette. LaMont Jones is fashion editor of the Post-Gazette.
Contact him at: ljones@post-gazette.com.
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