Article published November 26, 2009
Restaurant review: Encore By J.D. Wesley ****
A new outlet for fine dining
| Encore By J.D. Wesley |
Address: 5333 Monroe St.
Phone: 419-841-3222.
Category: Dress up.
Menu: Continental.
Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday-Friday. Dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 6 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations are accepted.
Wheelchair access: Yes.
Average price: $$$.
Credit cards: AE, Dis, MC, V.
Web site: encorebyjdwesley.com.
Ratings: ooooo Outstanding; oooo Very good; ooo Good; oo Fair; o Poor.
Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants. The Blade pays for critics' meals. |
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Pardon us for sitting down at our table at Encore By J.D. Wesley with more than a little anticipation.
With one of Toledo's best-known chefs — the Monroe Street restaurant's namesake — running the show, it's difficult not to expect something special. And with one exception we were not disappointed.
Even though it's tucked away in a strip mall, the restaurant is beautifully appointed, with local art on the walls, a classy atmosphere, and a wait staff that we found to be exceptional. The latter was attentive without being overbearing, with a focus on the customers' comfort.
Encore has an eclectic menu with a number of seafood items such as lobster ravioli ($23), fresh Norwegian salmon ($20), and grouper Mediterranean ($23), along with filet mignon ($27), veal picatta ($24), and chicken roulade ($19).
For dinner we opted for the wild stripped sea bass ($24) and the twin pork chop Normande ($18).
But first we sampled the duck liver pate and cheese ($9), which was the house-made pate served with imported cheeses, bread medallions, crackers, and fresh fruit. It was an excellent pairing of flavors, light and perfect to start a meal along with a glass of wine.
We ordered the pure maple salad ($7), which featured a maple syrup vinegarette and bosc pears, and the stilton salad ($6), which was a blue cheese lover's dream.
The bass was a large fish filet with a potato crust that was sauteed and finished in a caper fumet blanc. This is not a dish for those who like their seafood mellow, but I found it exceptional. The tastes blended together in a powerful melange that was irresistible. Vegetables and rice were served on the side.
The pork chop Normande — a pair of seven-ounce chops broiled and finished with carmelized onions and apples in an applejack brandy sauce — tasted great, but unfortunately the meat was too tough and chewy. We would have preferred a more moist, succulent cut. Vegetables and chef's potato were served with the meal.
Dessert was a dish called chocolate sac du bon bon ($11), and it just may be the best sweet treat in Toledo. A largish “box” of chocolate with whipped cream and a raspberry on top hides a supremely delicious mousse. Paired with a cup of coffee or, as the waiter recommended, a glass of port wine, it is difficult to imagine a better dessert that is perfect for two.
Lunch at Encore is just as intriguing. We had the bacon cheeseburger ($11), which was juicy and overflowing with taste, and the Scottish salmon eggs benedict ($11). The latter is not traditional lunch fare, obviously, but the smoked salmon served on a toasted English muffin and poached egg was worth the experiment.
The burger was served with fries, and the smoked salmon came with fresh hash browns. We started the meal with some sublime piping hot soups: a carrot gingerroot ($4) that was sweet and subtle, and a fabulous New England clam chowder ($5) that was creamy and filled with large bites of clam.
If a chef has the courage to put his name in the restaurant's title as J.D. Wesley did when he opened Encore in May, then the pressure is on to deliver. In this case, Wesley succeeds with a menu that — tough pork chop aside — we wouldn't hesitate to return to again and again to see what he has to offer.
Contact Bill of fare at: fare@theblade.com
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