The clocks have gone back, the nights are drawing in, and in our little Spanish village alongside the Camino de Santiago, the mighty river of passing pilgrims is finally slowing down to a trickle.
2016 has been The Year of the Americans.
Ten years ago, a mere 1,909 Americans made the rugged five-week trek across Northern Spain. So far this year, 15,242 have been recorded.
Most of them are middle-aged, middle class, and white. Most have forgotten the little Spanish they learned in school. Only half of them say they’re doing it for religious reasons.
What’s this Camino frenzy all about?
For one thing, it’s about The Way, a movie that came out in 2011, starring Martin Sheen. It wasn’t a blockbuster, but seeing Mr. Sheen trudge manfully through the beautiful and varied Spanish countryside having adventures, philosophical insights, too much wine, and making wonderful new friends from all nations — it gave people ideas. It looked interesting and fun and not too demanding.
Airfare can be a hefty item, but Martin showed how many pilgrims live pretty close to the ground, bunking in communal dormitories for a few euros per night. True, there was the odd mention of a pilgrimage from time to time during The Way, but Catholicism didn’t have much to do with the plot. The modern “pilgrim” doesn’t have to be religious.
Nowadays, the walk is the thing.
And one of the great attractions is getting equipped. Being an American pilgrim is not merely a matter of blizzard-proof, kwik-dry, Everest-worthy jackets, pants, hats, socks, gloves, boots, soap, towel, and sleeping bag. Americans require full 4G interactive real-time contact with civilization, and one would be insane to venture forth without a GPS to signal his location to the world. Oh, and a flashlight that attaches to his forehead. And a cute little stove for making a decent cup of coffee — or else life cannot go on. All this must fit into a scientific, anatomically-correct rucksack.
The vast majority of this stuff is either dumped, or boxed-up and sent home after the first day, because it weighs too much.
And, as time goes on and his physical burden is lightened, a load frequently lifts from the pilgrim’s mind. For a few weeks, he quits fretting over the job, the kids, and the car payments and gets down to essentials — how far will I walk today? Will there be a bed waiting? Can someone fix my blisters? He has the time and space to search his soul — not something most Americans are given to.
He is startled to find an economy based on generosity, not consumption — and to suddenly find himself reaching out to help others, without first measuring their morality. Some rediscover the faith they grew up with, or find something completely new to believe in. It is a magical, spiritual place, the Camino.
Perhaps, after this election, a new wave of Americans may arrive on the camino, ready for a little penance?
Patrick O'Gara, a former Blade editor, lives in Northern Spain. Contact him at: pogara@theblade.com.
First Published November 7, 2016, 5:00 a.m.