Patrick isn’t the only saint being feted this week.
The Feast of St. Joseph, celebrated with particular enthusiasm in Italian and Sicilian communities, arrives on Thursday. This is also a special day in Poland.
Joseph was the husband of the virgin Mary, and thus stepfather to Jesus. As such, in Catholicism he is the patron of fathers, carpenters, the Church itself, and social justice.
Legend has it that during the Middle Ages a severe drought put the crops, and thus the people, of Sicily at risk. Prayers were offered to St. Joseph, who is believed to have interceded; when rain came, a huge banquet was offered in gratitude. Centuries later, the Festa di San Giuseppe — Feast of St. Joseph — remains immensely popular.
Many foods are considered integral to Italian and Sicilian celebrations on Thursday, though there are regional differences. Luscious deep-fried, cream-filled fritters called zeppole are often served, as is pasta topped with bread crumbs that are reminiscent of the sawdust that would have been on the floor of Joseph’s carpentry workshop. Fava beans are often included in the meals, too, as they are considered to be a staple crop that survived the drought and helped the community to survive.
Because the feast day takes place during Lent, a time of penitence and sacrifice, the foods served are meatless.
In Bronte, Sicily, a city located at the foot of Mount Etna, Signorina Caprino Campana, now in her 80s, used to host a grand meal for her nieces and nephews when she was much younger. The Feast of St Joseph “really is a festival for children,” she said in Italian through a relative who served as translator. Traditionally, places are set for 19 children, since the feast day falls on the 19th.
Beautiful springtime flowers were always placed on the table, as were gorgeous blood oranges which are native to the area (which is most noted for growing pistachios). Wine, the famed Italian orange soda Aranciata, and bread were also set out. Fresh, crisp halves of fennel were served, as well as either steamed or boiled broccoli, to accompany the main dish baccalà (fried cod).
In the classic Italian meal structure, pasta is served as “il primo piatto,” or the first course. The Pasta e Ceci (Pasta and Chickpeas) recipe offered below emphasizes the simplicity of rustic Sicilian cooking and how the marrying of two staple ingredients results in an immensely flavorful union.
The dish that Mrs. Caprino Campana used to serve as part of her celebratory meal relies on the ceci-infused broth for its richness. Chickpeas are soaked overnight, then slowly cooked the next day for several hours ’til tender before being combined with small, tubular ditali, which means “thimbles.” Here we used the mini-thimbles, ditalini, which are more commonly found in the area. It sounds so easy (and it is), but the depth of the dish goes far beyond these basic ingredients.
Pasta e Ceci requires little adornment: A good olive oil is drizzled over each person’s serving, but nothing more. Cheese is not sprinkled on top, something Mrs. Caprino Campana was insistent about.
Celebrate St. Patrick today, when everyone is considered to be Irish and is likely enjoying corned beef and cabbage.
But don’t forget about the festivities -- not to mention this simple, but delicious, authentic Sicilian dish -- in honor of St. Joseph on Thursday.
Pasta e Ceci (Pasta and Chickpeas)
The simplicity of this dish is deceptive; it is rich with flavor. Because there are only a few ingredients, it is critical to use items of the very best quality, particularly the oil.
1 pound dry chickpeas
3 tablespoons kosher salt
4 quarts water, plus extra if needed
10 ounces ditali or ditalini (made with semolina)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving
Soak the chickpeas in cold water overnight. The next day, drain them in a colander and place them in an 8-quart stockpot along with the salt. Pour in 4 quarts water and bring the liquid to a boil. Skim the foam, then lower the heat to medium. Partially cover the pot with a lid. Cook for 3 hours, adjusting the heat as necessary to keep the water lightly bubbling (not a full rolling boil). Stir occasionally.
After 3 hours, the chickpeas should be very tender when tested by biting into them. Stir in the ditali (or ditalini) and extra water, if needed, to cover the pasta by at least 1 inch. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente.
Ladle the pasta e ceci into bowls with the broth. Drizzle each serving with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the olive oil.
Yield: About 10 cups.
Source: Adapted from Signorina Caprino Campana.
First Published March 17, 2015, 4:00 a.m.