“I’ve been all over the world, but I always want to come home,” said Dina Villa, the owner of long-time favorite El Tipico Restaurant.
And where is home? Toledo, of course, where Ms. Villa was raised.
But “I call this home,” too, she said as she sat in the establishment her family opened 54 years ago this month. It serves classic Mexican dishes as well as some unique items that her late parents, Ezekiel and Consuelo Villa, had created for the menu. And there’s quite a selection of Cheap Eats-worthy dishes that come in at or under $10.
We wanted to stop by and show off El Tipico to offer congratulations on the big anniversary. But we also wanted to offer condolences to the Villa family: sadly, Ezekiel passed away in January after long and distinguished careers in the military, as a restaurateur, and as a minister.
Chips and salsa are always in style, even after a half-century. And we tried all five varieties of dip: mild (red from tomatoes), hot (green from jalapeños), chunky pico de gallo, bright and tart tomatillo, and the extra hot habanero.
On the day we visited, this last option was made from a mix of habaneros and jalapeños, due to sourcing issues; but I’m here to tell you that it still lived up to its reputation, and kept me hydrated as I washed it down with an entire tall glass of ice water. The salsa continued to remind me of its presence, still tingling on my tongue, for a significant length of time after eating just one marble-sized taste on a chip, I might add. (Be sure to check out the video if you want to watch my reaction and join me in a hearty laugh!)
I moved on to the small Mexican pizza ($9): a crisp flour tortilla topped generously with all the favorites — refried beans, ground beef, guacamole, cheese, and fresh tomato slices. This was a substantial meal all by itself, with layer after layer of goodness.
Mr. Villa had created what he called a Puff Taco ($4.75), and it, too, was a very filling portion all by itself. It starts with a perfectly puffed tortilla that’s neither too crisp (and thus shatters) or too soft (a.k.a.: soggy), but which hits just the right spot in the middle to hold all the filling while being easy to eat. Ours was made with shredded, beautifully seasoned chicken and topped with cheese and Romaine lettuce, as well as tomatoes; fresh onions and cilantro came on the side, and were bright, tasty additions.
Because it’s practically mandatory to order tacos at a Mexican restaurant, no matter how many other delicious choices there are, Cheap Eats producer Phillip Kaplan felt compelled to also sample a crispy taco in a corn shell, with a filling of ground beef ($3.50). “We had to get a typical taco!” he said, and it was a true classic.
The tamales dinner ($10) was a complete and filling meal: two tamales (we got one pork and one potato) served with refried beans and rice on the side. These cylinders are a true labor of love, from mixing the masa and cooking the fillings to wrapping and steaming the tamales. And you can taste the care with which they’re made.
With this dish, we sampled five accompanying sauces: ancho chile, verde (green, made with tomatillos), Ranchero (chunky with stewed tomatoes, onions, and peppers), queso blanco, and a “legit” mole, as Mr. Kaplan put it, that is luscious with fragrant dark chocolate, chiles, spices, nuts, fruits, and seeds. He’d been missing a beloved mole sauce that he used to enjoy when living in Chicago, and was smitten by El Tipico’s version: It was “a flavor I haven’t been able to enjoy in a decade,” he said.
Next I tried the enormous — despite being labelled “small” — Cheese Crispy, another of Mr. Villa’s inventive plates ($9). Like the pizza, its base is a crisp flour tortilla, though you have to dig deep under all the goodies to find it. Piled on top is a pyramid of refried beans, Romaine lettuce, cheese, sour cream, guacamole, tomatoes, and meltingly tender beef tips. This could easily feed two people, but it’s so good that you won’t want to share.
And finally (whew!), our meal ended with mini chimichangas (two for $8): I tried one each of the chocolate- and the apple-filled, fried crisp and sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. You can get chocolate sauce or caramel for dipping; we tried both, and I couldn’t possibly choose a favorite, they were so good.
As much as possible, El Tipico uses organic ingredients, Ms. Villa said. That’s how her mother did it before her, and she notices that the dishes just don’t taste the same when made otherwise. The restaurant also offers gluten-free and vegan options — in fact, everything on the menu can accommodate special diets, ensuring that everyone is welcome to dine there.
When I told her that the food tastes as though it’s been infused with love, Ms. Villa stated, “It has to,” very clearly.
“It represents my family,” she said, and their home-away-from-home.
Because that’s what home is all about, isn’t it? Making you feel welcome and nurtured and loved.
El Tipico Restaurant, 1444 South Ave., 419-382-0661, eltipicotoledo.com.
First Published March 23, 2022, 11:17 a.m.
