It’s Toledo’s newest restaurant, so of course we had to head on over and welcome it to town.
What place are we talking about?
Coop’s, the latest establishment from restaurateurs Ed Beczynski (The Blarney, Focaccia’s) and Brad and Ava Fields, owners of the Netty’s franchise on Fearing Blvd. It’s named for the Fields’ four-year-old son, Cooper, “and it connects to the Mud Hens,” too, said Mrs. Fields.
This may be a small space, with a long counter and a few tall tables, but there’s an abundance of local love on display.
Not only does Coop’s serve Netty’s famous chili dogs (obviously, given the connection), a beloved Toledo fixture. But it offers boozy shakes featuring Earnest Brew Works beer — a perfect pairing, given that EBW’s downtown location is right across the street.
“We’re super excited,” Mrs. Fields raved, about the partnership. She said that they’ll likely rotate varieties for the shakes, with an emphasis on seasonality.
Starting on Mud Hens’ opening day (this past Tuesday), the boozy shake additions will include the EBW beers, vodka, and other liquors, so diners can choose their personal preferences.
Because we’d arrived before the liquor license did, we ordered a teetotaler’s S’more shake ($5.25 small, $6.25 large): a beautiful blend of chocolate ice cream, graham crackers, marshmallow cream, and hot fudge topped with a generous spritz of whipped cream. It will undoubtedly be great when we can booze it up (and you know I’ll be back to try it that way), but the rich shake certainly didn’t need it. All the flavors came through in perfect proportions, and it was so thick that I’m sure I burned off a couple of calories as I took some sips.
Of course, I had to order the Netty’s Famous Chili Dog ($2.85), which was — as always — the o.g., old school, Old World classic that we all love. Great juicy dog, just enough mustard to shine through the chili, and the uniquely seasoned, spiced (but not spicy hot) sauce that the Glass City-based franchise is noted for.
The chili cheese fries ($5.85) were a mix of expected comfort food and surprise sensation: that favorite chili sauce, ooey gooey cheese, but a pile of crackling crisp lightly battered fries that could hold up to the toppings without getting soggy. A genius move, absolutely.
It may be brand new, but every seat (except for two waiting for us at the last available table) was filled. And one customer was already a regular, there for a repeat visit even though the spot had only been open for a few days.
Clearly, Coop’s is destined to become a Toledo institution of its own.
Coop’s, 30 S. St. Clair St., facebook.com/Coops-Downtown-104864931999507.
First Published April 5, 2022, 5:41 p.m.