TONTOGANY, Ohio — At first glance, Doc’s Food & Spirits in Wood County’s Tontogany is everything you’d expect from a small-town restaurant and bar.

It’s small, unassuming, dimly lit, and its tables and chairs are similar to those you would find in any community hall.

But it’s varied menu and welcoming staff sets Doc’s apart.

The promise of top-notch ribs was enough to get us to make the 30-minute drive from Toledo.

And sure enough, the baby back ribs ($11.49 for a quarter rack, $14.59 for a half; and $22.59 for a full) lived up to their recommendation, though in a somewhat surprising fashion.

MENU: Doc’s Food and Spirits

RELATED CONTENT: Click to see more of The Blade's restaurant reviews

The meat was soft, tender, and covered with a deliciously sweet barbecue sauce. The meat fell off the bone with such ease that a fork seemed to be the only way to dig into the dish; a knife wasn’t necessary.

Barbecue connoisseurs will argue that ribs are a hands-on affair, and the meat should require some tug to pull it from the bone. But it’s hard to argue with results. One diner said Doc’s ribs reminded him of a bit of stew — a true comfort food.

On a separate visit, we decided to sample the rib meat nachos. Served by the dozen ($7.59) or the half-dozen ($5.29), the nachos were perfectly portioned. Each nacho was layered with rib meat and smothered in shredded cheese. The popular appetizer avoided the common pitfalls — too many chips and too little toppings or so many toppings that the nachos are soggy.

Two beef selections — beef tips ($13.79) the 10-ounce sirloin and shrimp ($16.99) — were also very good.

Unlike many restaurants, Doc’s beef tips don't swim in a gravy or a sauce splayed across noodles.

Instead the beef is marinated, threaded through two wood skewers, and grilled to the diner’s liking.

Likewise, the 10-ounce sirloin was perfectly seasoned and grilled, and the four fried shrimp were light and crispy.

All dinners are served with a choice of potato, and a house salad or cole slaw and a breadstick.

The cole slaw was creamy with just the right amount of tartness. The server pointed us toward the home fries, and the result was a heaping mound of crisp potatoes and onions.

In areas where restaurant options are limited, service is often an afterthought. After all, there’s not much competition.

But during each visit to Doc’s, the servers asked if we’d ever eaten there before and were quick to answer any questions. 

We were also alerted to the specials — Tuesdays are 50-cent wings and Thursdays are $1 tacos and $1 margaritas.

When ordering the wings, the server quickly offered a warning that the hot wings do indeed pack heat. The warning was appreciated, and one diner opted to split the order between hot and medium.

Speaking of heat, the bottle caps ($4.99) were a pleasant surprise under appetizers. Bottle caps are sliced jalapenos, breaded and fried. The result was a crispy gem with just the right amount of kick.

The tacos were what you'd expect for the price — simply the basics: chicken or beef, shredded cheese, and lettuce in soft or hard shells. Jalapenos and sour cream can be added for 59 cents.

Doc’s “regular” margarita is actually made with lemonade. Again, the server told us that the drink varied from the popular lime flavor. The lemon was nice, light, and still packed a punch. Peach and strawberry margaritas are also served.

Following the Mexican theme, we also ordered fajitas ($14.99) and enchiladas ($8.79).

The fajitas were actually served on two plates; the first featured a mountain of chicken breast strips, onions, and green peppers, and the second held refried beans, Spanish rice, and three flour tortillas lettuce, tomato, and a bit of guacamole.

Initial fears that the dish was mainly onions and peppers were unfounded. A hearty portion of seasoned grilled chicken was buried beneath the vegetables, and there were enough leftovers for dinner the next two nights. The only complaint was that the kitchen used a bit too much oil when frying the meat and vegetables.

The three enchiladas — one of each chicken, cheese, and beef — were covered in sauce and cheese, bookended with the rice and beans. The meat of the ground beef and shredded chicken enchiladas wasn't seasoned, which would have been nice, but the sauce permeated everything, making any additives moot. The flavor was as expected — nothing too spicy or out of the ordinary.

Doc’s offers a friendly atmosphere and hearty portions that shouldn’t empty your wallet. It’s out-of-the-way location won’t deter us from returning.

Contact Bill of Fare fare@theblade.com.

First Published August 13, 2015, 4:00 a.m.