In a town called Waterville, you’d expect to be able to get some decent fish.

That’s certainly what we found at Chowders ‘N Moor, a seafood spot that’s well-established in this riverside town. We last visited nearly a decade ago, and it seems things have been going well in the intervening years. There were crowds out the door on a recent Monday-night visit, and after a few meals there, we can see the draw.

Chowders has a kitschy but appealing atmosphere — the kind of place with a big plastic marlin on the wall — and we enjoyed looking at the odd memorabilia on display. Naturally, fish is the star here, but the menu is full of surprises.

Consider the Hawaiian Burger ($11.69), which came recommended by our server. I was skeptical of a hamburger topped with pineapple, green peppers, and honey mustard. Simpler tends to be better with a well-cooked patty, but this novelty burger turned out to be a pretty great combination. Served with fresh-cut fries — street-fair style — the meal was a great complement to a cold drink and the cool breeze of the outdoor patio.

Bill of Fare

Hitting the streets at savory Bombay Kitchen

Or the restaurant’s signature dish, which isn’t fish at all but a Southwestern-style White Chicken Chili ($4.49/$5.99), which came carefully arranged with tortilla chips. We always appreciate extra effort put into presentation, and it was on display here. The chili is tangy, thick, and creamy, and we can see why it gets star billing.The chili is even touted on the servers’ T-shirts, so it ought to be worth all the fuss.

We also felt obligated to try the titular Clam Chowder ($4.49/$5.99), which we found really satisfying, with nice chunks of crab in a thick, milky base. The flavors were really well-balanced, with no cloying fishiness.

We checked out a few of Chowders’ seafood main dishes and sandwiches, as well.

Our favorite entree was the Pecan Glazed Salmon ($17.69). The fish came on a bed of rice with a sweet, nutty paste on top. While the sweetness could have been overpowering and drowned out the flavor of the fish, instead we found the combination worked well.

We preferred the salmon to teriyaki-glazed Mahi-Mahi ($17.29), which came topped with a mango salsa. While the dish was good and the thick, steak-like mahi-mahi well-cooked, the dish couldn’t match the salmon’s intense flavors.

Multiple servers recommended the Lake Perch Sandwich ($12.29), which showcased a delicious fish filet fried in a crispy breading. It was a satisfying combination with a side of sweet potato waffle fries.

The French Dip ($12.29) was the most disappointing dish we tried, with the beef a little too dry and the sandwich a little too greasy for our liking.

Bill of Fare

Forget your worries for a spell at Twin Oast

Among the restaurant’s appetizers, we tried the Buffalo Shrimp ($12.99), which is basically buffalo wings with shrimp instead of chicken. We weren’t sold on the dish at first taste, but by the time we finished the plate, we agreed it was a worthy appetizer, if a bit pricey for what you get.

The Spinach Artichoke Dip ($6.99) is a less interesting appetizer but still a reliably salty, cheesy start to a meal.

There’s no way to try everything at Chowders. In addition to the burgers, sandwiches, and seafood, there’s an entire second “South of the Border” menu tucked inside the main menu. And there’s a full kids’ menu as well as a full bar. For a restaurant that tries to please everyone, Chowder’s does an admirable job. We found a restaurant that’s well-run, clean, inviting, and can handle a crowd even while juggling social distancing. And more than once, we came away from the table pleasantly surprised.

Chowders ‘N Moor has only gotten better since the last time we were here. It’s a great neighborhood restaurant that’s certainly worth a drive down the river.

First Published August 19, 2020, 10:23 p.m.