In 1957, the Soviet Union made history by sending Sputnik 1 into outer space. Father Knows Best, American Bandstand, and Leave It to Beaver dominated the TV airwaves. Jack Kerouac's book On the Road was a best-seller. Pouting sex goddess Brigitte Bardot was banned from movie screens across the country in And God Created Woman, and Elvis Presley's "All Shook Up" topped the year's pop charts.
Much closer to home, the Freeway Drive-in opened on Navarre Avenue, drawing legions of East Siders with hot dogs, burgers, and shakes delivered by cute car hops on roller skates.
A half century later, the car hops, hot rods, and '50s rock and roll are gone, but the Freeway remains. As in the past, the restaurant, in a strip mall across from St. Charles Hospital, feeds hungry people from both sides of the river 24 hours a day, though it's no longer a drive-in but simply a restaurant.
Depending on who's talking and what generation they're from, the Freeway is regarded either as a greasy spoon with spectacularly ordinary food, or an all-night palace that serves hearty breakfasts - especially after the bars close.
Whatever the memory, the Freeway continues to dish up the same anytime-breakfasts and other rib-sticking meals. We're talking a choice of 14 omelets with potatoes and toast at $6.60 each; burgers and hot roast beef sandwiches in the same price range; and $7 to $12 dinners of fried chicken, ham steak, perch, and clam strips among 18 options.
The restaurant gets its name from its owners, the Free family. Faded black and white photos pinned on a board behind the cash register offer scenes of the early days, along with nostalgic photos of the 1950s restaurant interior. Still in use are six of the original stools at the counter.
One lunch brought a run-of-the-mill cheeseburger ($5.85-$6.60) and a daily special of noodles and beef heaped with meat and served with a choice of potato, soup, vegetable, and dinner roll for around $7.
A more recent visit ran the gamut, from a $1.95 cup of ham and potato soup (with no discernible meat) to filling, gravy-sopped roast beef and mashed potatoes. Also good was a chicken breast dinner ($7.85) smothered with melted swiss cheese, peppers, and tomatoes with all the fixings, including a free visit to the plain but serviceable salad bar.
Among sandwiches, the cod ($4.60) was delicately breaded while the perch ($5.85) was a better, tastier cut despite an inexplicably thicker breading.
A final note: No alcohol is served, and the restaurant accepts cash only - no checks or credit cards.
Contact Bill of Fare at fare@theblade.com
First Published April 26, 2007, 9:33 a.m.
