Eat local.

That's the giant-letters-on-the-wall directive of the Prime Thyme Eatery, which itself is so proud to be “419-owned” as to include that tagline right in its logo.

And rightly so: The distinctly local character of this diner is among its most charming aspects.

Prime Thyme opened in late 2021, in the former Anna's Restaurant on Woodville Road in Northwood. It's since been carving its own niche in the local restaurant scene, serving breakfast and lunch six days a week, and now dinner on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

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Its menu is a thoughtful take on diner fare: Think sandwiches, burgers, and salads, plus breakfast options and several homestyle entrees that become available after 4 p.m. They're collectively curated and individually created in ways that ensure this menu isn't a carbon-copy of every other diner in town. Patrons are sure to find something to pique their interest.

As we browsed the menu during a recent midweek lunch — apparently the “prime time” for this eatery, based on our limited experience; the booths that line the single dining room were pretty well full by the time we arrived around noon — our cheerful server was quick to oblige us with a few enthusiastic recommendations.

One dining companion took her up on the chicken bacon club ($11.95), with mozzarella, onion straws, and garlic aioli, and with fries as her choice of a side. The server suggested adding some barbecue sauce as well, which my dining companion agreed was a good combo.

The sandwich was good, she said, but could have been better. She walked away satisfied with her meal, but also not inclined to go out of her way for a return trip to Prime Thyme.

I likewise took the server's suggestion in the strawberry chicken pecan salad ($10.95 for a small, $13.95 for a large), with spinach and mixed greens, grilled chicken, candied pecans, bacon, feta, and strawberries, all served with a strawberry balsamic dressing.

They're an easy flavor combination to like, and this version hit all the right sweet-and-savory marks for me.

Another companion sampled the breakfast menu with the eggs Benedict ($10.95), which he described as “perfectly adequate,” but also thought could be found at any diner. And a fourth said he appreciated that the menu includes some vegetarian and vegan fare, like his “delicious” black bean burger ($10.95) that comes served with guacamole spread and feta atop a toasted brioche bun.

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Our second recent visit was for a Friday dinner, which brings a slightly different menu to the tables. In addition to some homestyle and some higher-end entrees like a slow-roasted prime rib ($23.95) and a ribeye steak ($24.95), the dinner menu includes a few appetizers.

That's how we started this meal.

The Reuben balls ($8.95) were a highlight for several dining companions: locally sourced cubed corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss, and rye, all rolled into balls, fried, and served with Thousand Island dressing. The roasted cauliflower ($8.95), though, despite its preparation with a “zesty” oil, cheese sauce, and breadcrumbs, proved  pretty forgettable.

Tempted by the promise of a home-made sauce and family recipe, I went on to try the chicken paprikash ($16.95). I really liked the pillowy, gnocchi-like spaetzle noodles in a creamy, buttery paprika sauce; so did dining companions more familiar with this Hungarian dish, although they agreed the mild sauce wasn't quite like any other recipe they'd tried.

My chicken, though, was quite a noticeably thin breast — and overcooked to boot.

These were offenses that were harder to ignore in a dining companion's barbecue chicken ($15.95) entree, whose portion he described as “hilariously small.” He wondered if his heaping helping of sweet potato waffle fries was intended to make up for it.

The walleye tacos ($14.95) tempted a third dining companion, who said he wished the fish had been served warmer, but particularly liked the slaw, avocado spread, pineapple salsa, and jalapeño crema that came on top. He went for the sweet potato fries as a side, too, and gathered that the cup of syrup that came on his plate was for them, not for the tacos; he said it was an unexpected pairing that made the fries into a more sweet than savory treat.

Prime Thyme deserves credit for its interesting offerings, even if its execution sometimes misses the mark. For those who like to try out local diners, this one is well worth the trip.

First Published September 8, 2022, 11:00 a.m.