You could say this diner is showing its age.
Or you could say it's wearing it well, given that it was established back in 1934.
That proud history is announced on the cover of the laminated menus at Sam and Charlie's White Hut Diner, a final lingering connection to the local chain that was popular in the '50s. And it's easy to believe it's edging toward nine decades in business: The interior is dated and a little dusty; the exterior could use some love, too, plus a few replacement letters in the “Sam and Charlie's” written across the barn-style roof along Central Avenue.
But if that's part of the charm, then it's obviously working. On two recent trips we observed that this diner doesn't seem to have any trouble filling its booths — or filling diners' bellies with its stand-out waffles and a burger that endeared its forerunners to a generation of Toledoans.
Let's start with the waffles.
★★★ ½
Address: 2344 Central Ave., Toledo
Phone: 419-474-7979
Category: Diner
Menu: Breakfast, burgers, and sandwiches
Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily
Wheelchair access: Yes.
Average Price: $
Credit Cards: MC, V, D.
Website: Facebook at bit.ly/3FREsAp
Sam & Charlie's might just serve the best I've ever had. I sampled a plain waffle with a lunchtime order of chicken and waffles ($8.99), and found it deliciously light and sweet — fluffy interior, just a hint of a crunch where the batter hit the iron at the edges.
A dining companion and I also took advantage of the option to order just a “quarter bite” waffle ($1.49 for plain, or $1.99 for flavored). It's advertised on the menu as an excellent side dish or dessert, and I wholeheartedly agree.
The quarter bites are where we learned that the flavored waffles are even better than the standard versions at Sam & Charlie's. My banana nut tasted like banana nut bread pressed into a waffle iron, and her brownie was her favorite item on the table.
Waffles are served with an optional swirl of whipped cream on top, and a cup of whipped butter and warmed maple syrup on the side.
Sam and Charlie's leans heavily into this signature offering, including waffle-themed decor that extends all the way to some kitschy chandeliers. And rightly so — diner can't go wrong with the waffles.
Now let's move onto the burgers.
I figured I had to try the Super King ($7.29), another signature offering at Sam & Charlie's that I gathered is a staple of its forerunners in the old White Hut Diners. It's a half-pound double-decker burger piled with cheese, lettuce, pickle, and a tangy, mayo-based “special sauce.” It's enormous, and just what you want and expect in a greasy diner burger.
In this case it was actually the bun that stood out to me and a dining companion who helped me polish it off over lunch: fresh and well toasted.
Was it the best burger I've ever had? Probably not. But it's easy to imagine that other diners might find that a side of nostalgia would help it to clear that high bar.
Those who aren't interested in the waffles or burgers will find plenty of other options at Sam and Charlie's, where the menu is heavy on breakfast options and not light on lunch — appropriate for a diner that serves breakfast all day and shuts its doors daily at 2 p.m.
My dining companions were drawn to the breakfast menu over our two recent trips. A Farmer's Omelette ($7.49) with shredded potatoes, onion, and cheese wasn't as exceptional as the waffle in one companion’s opinion, but was still quite good.
Another ordered the French toast house special ($7.59), with four slices of French toast, a choice of eggs, and a choice of sausage or bacon. He found the French toast to be soft, sweet, and moist with an (un)healthy dusting of powdered sugar; he said it was delicious, and he had high praise for the line cook who prepared his over-easy eggs and bacon, too.
This dining companion's only complaint? The coffee. It won't do anything for connoisseurs.
Sam and Charlie's was a pleasant surprise for my dining parties, whose members were all first-timers in its booths; we were all too young to know its history off-hand, and, frankly, a little wary of its appearance from the road.
What we found is that a diner who walks into this establishment with the right expectations is going to walk away satisfied: This isn't fancy fare, but it has clearly stood the test of time for a reason.
First Published March 30, 2023, 1:00 p.m.