For those of a certain age, the taste of McDonald’s french fries in the ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s is still a strong memory.
The signature flavor of the fries came from being fried in beef tallow, aka beef fat. That came to a screeching halt in 1990 when the chain announced it would use vegetable oil.
Decades later, Kris Parker, owner-operator and head chef at Sylvania’s Borderline Grill, has brought the nostalgic flavor of those fries back.
“We were very interested in getting away from seed oils,” Mr. Parker said. “There is a push to go back to natural products, and we were able to get the tallow. I can tell you our fries are a smash hit so far. It was just a good choice.”
The grill is located in the former Quarry Cantina space, 5680 Mayberry Square.
Mr. Parker’s wife, Nikki Falk, owner-operator and director of marketing, said the location and neighborhood feel was just what they were looking for.
“The area is really good here,” Ms. Falk said. “This is now a family location, which is what we wanted. We still have the bar, but we also have a kids’ zone and children’s menu. It was important for us to offer that.”
The Borderline name came from the fact that Ms. Falk is originally from Michigan and Mr. Parker is from Ohio. The location is close to the border.
Prior to opening Borderline, Ms. Falk was doing social media for Barr’s Public House while Mr. Parker was the head chef.
The couple has two children, Evelyn, 7 and Maximilian, 5.
“That is why we wanted a place that is open to everyone,” Ms. Falk said. “It is more inclusive now.”
Ben Ziemkiewicz, with 4 Point Services in Ottawa Lake, Mich., designed the new decor as well as Borderline’s logo, Ms. Falk said.
“Everything is new here,” Mr. Parker said. “We have increased the quality of the food and level of service. We have scratch-made food. Nothing is preprepped. I think we have moved a step above by using quality, fresh ingredients. I think people will be surprised.”
The restaurant's eclectic menu is small but contains several new dishes as well as some real classics.
Appetizers like fried burrata — a hand breaded and fried mozzarella ball served with vodka tomato sauce and crostini bread, share the menu with chicken wings, a classic bar favorite.
Entrees include chicken parmesan, chicken fettuccine Alfredo, and ribeye steak.
Poutine, a Quebecois standard, starts with fries cooked in beef tallow, then smothered in a house-made gravy, cheese curds, bacon, and green onions.
Handhelds include smash burgers topped with bacon, American cheese, house-made burger sauce, pickle, and onion, and ribeye sandwiches. A Croque Monsieur, which consists of a toasted ham and cheese sandwich with house-made bechamel sauce, gruyere, and parmesan, is another nod to classic French cuisine.
“I know the poutine and the Croque Monsieur are classics that are out of some people’s comfort zone, but they should just try it,” Mr. Parker said. “We are using antibiotic free, rosemary-infused ham in the sandwich, and it is outstanding.”
Salads, desserts, sides, and more can all be found on the small menu. The menu, though, will change as the restaurant grows.
Specialty drinks, designed by bar manager Chris Ryan, include the Bramble On made with dry gin, lemon, and blackberry liquor and the Mike Jones, a concoction of chocolate syrup, vodka, Liquor 43 Chocolate, Irish cream, coffee, and hazelnut liquor, are popular, Ms. Falk said.
Seasonal drinks available include the Sugar Cookie, made of vanilla vodka, amaretto, dark spiced rum, Licor 43, hazelnut liquor, and cream and served in a sprinkle-rimmed glass. The Winter Mule has vodka, cinnamon whisky, lime, Gosling’s Ginger Beer, and cranberry.
Borderline Grill is open 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. The couple is looking at expanding hours in the future.
“We have a small menu now and that is on purpose,” Mr. Parker said. “We have a core menu that we want to make sure we can execute well. We will be adding seasonal items in the future.”
For more information, go to borderlinegrill.com.
First Published January 28, 2025, 2:58 p.m.
