Grocery stores stock whole milk, skim milk, 2 percent, and more, alongside plant-based options like oat, almond, and soy milks.
As you’re searching the fridges for the kind you prefer, one variant you won’t find in retail is raw milk.
Raw milk is a form of animal milk — typically from cows, sheep, or goats — and is illegal in Ohio through retail sale. However, raw dairy products, like milk, cream, and cheese, can be purchased through herdshare arrangements in the state.
A herdshare is a private agreement between a farmer and customer, where the customer can purchase a portion of the herd and become a shareholder. The member will then receive a share of raw milk and other raw dairy products in exchange for paying for the care of the animals.
What constitutes raw dairy is milk that has not been pasteurized, or heated to a high enough temperature to kill harmful bacteria and pathogens, and it isn’t homogenized either.
“Homogenization is where they pressurize the milk and disperse the fat [droplets] in the milk,” explained Laurie Syring, a clinical nutrition manager at ProMedica Flower Hospital. “The fat is dispersed evenly throughout the milk so that it doesn’t separate out.”
The Raw Milk Institute claims that pasteurization destroys nutrients, Ms. Syring said. The institute is a nonprofit that advocates for the benefits of raw milk through research and education. When you look at evidence-based research and science, that claim is insignificant, she said.
“They heat [the milk] to 161 degrees and it flows over these coils, and it’s just for 15 seconds,” the nutritionist explained about pasteurization. “It’s not destroying the protein or the protein structure, vitamins, [or] minerals.”
Raw milk claims
Many raw milk enthusiasts claim that pasteurization can cause allergic reactions, but the Food and Drug Administration provided a response to this, stating that the milk proteins that cause allergic reactions in “dairy-sensitive people” are found in both pasteurized and raw milk.
“Lactose intolerance is due to an insufficient production in the body of the enzyme needed to break down lactose, beta-galactosidase,” the FDA stated. “Lactose is present in both raw milk and pasteurized milk at the same concentration. Pasteurization does not impact the concentration of lactose.”
The FDA also provided scientific evidence supporting the fact that there are no beneficial bacteria found in raw milk that can aid in human gastrointestinal health.
The bacteria found in raw milk are not probiotic, the FDA stated, and probiotic microorganisms must be of human origin to impact human health.
An exception of bacteria found in raw milk that is of human origin is Streptococcus pyogenes. S. pyogenes. Once the bacteria is colonized in animals, it can be re-transmitted to humans as a human pathogen that causes strep throat.
“Bifidobacteria have been mentioned by raw milk advocates as the ‘good bugs’ in raw milk. Bifidobacteria are bacteria commonly found in human and animal gastrointestinal track and they are bacteria that make up the gut flora,” according to the FDA. “Since bifidobacteria are found in cow’s GI track, they are present in cow’s fecal matter. … In fact, the presence of bifidobacteria in raw milk indicates fecal contamination and poor farm hygiene.”
Risk factors
Before pasteurization of milk in the early 1900s, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention provided evidence that raw milk consumption was a common source of illness.
The CDC recommends against the consumption of raw milk to avoid the risk of foodborne illnesses and germs like Campylobacter, Cryptosporidium, E. coli, Listeria, Brucella, and Salmonella.
Common symptoms of foodborne illness from raw milk can include stomach cramping, vomiting, and diarrhea, according to the CDC. Flu symptoms like body ache, fever, and headaches may also occur.
More recently, the CDC reported that the HPAI A(H5N1) bird flu has been found in dairy cows with the first case reported in March, 2024. This is the first case of bird flu viruses that have been found in cows. As of Friday, there are more than 65 confirmed total reported human cases and one death associated with H5N1 bird flu in the United States.
Based on research from the CDC, pasteurized milk is still safe to drink, while the virus has been detected in raw, unpasteurized milk.
“There is concern that consumption of unpasteurized milk and products made from unpasteurized milk contaminated with HPAI A(H5N1) virus could transmit [avian influenza] to people,” according to the CDC. “However, the risk of human infection is unknown at this time.”
Perspective of a raw milk farmer
Troy Knoll, owner of Will-o-Knoll Dairy LLC in North Fairfield, Ohio, has been selling raw milk through the farm’s herdshare program for around 16 months.
“Everything is treated the same as we would ship to a grade A plant,” the owner said. “Everything is washed on 180-degree water with the proper soaps. … The milk goes through a filter, and then put into what’s called the bulk tank, and it’s chilled down to 38 degrees within 10 to 15 minutes.”
Mr. Knoll has been drinking raw milk for as long as he can remember, and said he stands by the claims of the dairy being good for gut health and digestion, but recognized the negative effects as well.
“Where the negative could be is improper cleaning for very harmful bacteria,” he added. “That could pose a risk; we could get sick.”
The owner said he will “never deny” that raw milk isn’t risk free, but believes that proper testing will aid in the safety of the product, along with keeping the cattle and equipment clean, sanitized, properly cooled, and well cared for.
“I try to stay very proactive with the raw products,” he said. “We have tested twice now for bird flu. If I thought one person was going to get sick to any degree, I wouldn’t even do it. I’d have zero interest.”
Mr. Knoll said his farm’s dairy cows get tested monthly on a Dairy Herd Improvement scale that measures their fat and protein levels, and tests for somatic cell count, which is a mastitis count that detects infection. Its raw milk is tested once a month as well, along with frequent testing for the farm’s equipment.
The raw milk produced at Will-o-Knoll should last 10 to 14 days, he said, adding that cold temperatures are “milk’s best friend.”
“It’s got a thicker texture, a more creamy texture, and it definitely has a sweeter taste to it,” Mr. Knoll said in comparison to pasteurized milk. “I grew up on it. … My dad, my grandfather, and my children. That’s all we ever had.”
First Published January 12, 2025, 5:00 a.m.
